It feels like this city lives under a Wes Anderson filter. Beige buildings, brassed Copper, and a golden glow shining on this ancient place. It's magical.
Budapest is only a 2-hour flight away for us. I don't know why we didn't visit before. No genuine desire besides loving the film "Budapest Hotel"; we just booked a cheap flight to get away from our day-to-day lives in the late summer. No big reasons, just us wanting to budget travel. Since it's trip number 3 of 5 this year.
Why this child-free tourist chose Budapest
We did Christmas in Prague back in 2014. And my assumptions were that Budapest would be and feel similar. Also, foodwise, I was prepared NOT to be impressed. Eastern Europe always calls for dark woods, fat stews, and cheap beer. And how did Budapest fulfill my expectations? I loved the goulash, didn't drink as much beer, and the dark woods are actually filled with beautiful, history-filled buildings. The outside of those buildings transports you back to a forgotten era. And especially outside the city center, you can see that there must have been grandeur here in the past, but sometimes they lack the funds to upkeep the majestic buildings to their original state. In the city center, however, they do. And it feels like walking on a movie set. We really loved Budapest as an easy-to-explore city with a good mix of food, drinks, history, architecture, greenery, and shopping.
Let me tell you all about our adventure.
How we got there
It took us an X-hour flight from Charleroi airport to Budapest, with the low-cost airline Ryanair. Service and flight were smooth. Although we were reminded why Charleroi is one of the worst airports in Europe. A long queue for the security check-in, overpriced burger hamburger (isn't this a chain? Shouldn't prices be the same, not depending on location?), and paying for the (disgusting) toilets at luggage pick up (yes, after you arrive, in the actual terminal). But remember, cheap flights!
Day-to-day Budapest
Day 1
First day, arrival in the evening. Just in time to check in @deans home in Budapest, and see the sunset from the rooftop terrace. Our "hotel" is actually a student residence which rents out rooms as hotel rooms during the summer. We actually loved it: we had our own refrigerator, a grocery store just next door, and a spotless, fun environment. Also a plus, and the reason we chose this hotel: the rooftop. The rooftop should be a great place to unwind after a day in the city and spend the evening drinking wine while watching the sunset. What better way to end your day?
Day 2
The second day is exploration day. Again, I have booked a pass with Big Bus Tours. In my opinion, this is the best way to see a city without the crowds. And I usually prefer this way of transport, especially on the first day(s) when city-tripping. However, since our hotel is out of the way, we decided to walk to the first bus stop. On the way, we come across the Szabó Ervin Library. Which is on my to-do list. We wait outside until opening time, together with the IG influencers who have to tick off this box as well. This is not free; you have to buy a ticket to visit the "City Palace". It was pretty cheap, but still. Don't get fooled. It isn't free, yet it's worth the 5 Euros we're gonna spend. It is a beautiful building, actually still in use by the visitors. You can also drink a coffee at the cozy shop at the (binnekoer) of the city palace, if you don't feel like overdosing but still want to soak up the vibe.
Next: on to our hop-on-hop-off bus. We decide to get off at the first stop, where a castle in the distance invites us for a visit. The stop: Heroes' Square. The castle: Vajdahunyad Castle. A beautiful park with matching scenery, we loved the vibe and attractions, but didn't stay for long because we had a booked timeslot for a visit to the Hungarian Parliament. A bit double this one: these days you have to prebook a time slot to visit attractions like these, on the other hand, it really downplays the process of experiencing a city. You have to be somewhere on time. If you do not prebook, you are likely to will miss a beautiful and remarkable experience. A tourist dilemma, this one. But we didn't regret the visit to the Parliament. It was well worth the money. A stunning building, with an audioguide that tells you just enough about the history without it getting boring. Definitely worth it.
Afterwards, and already quite a few steps in our system, we decided to give in to a tourist trap: an Italian bodega with an outside terrace, and eat and drink something. Although service was impeccable and the food and drinks were good, the price was a bit on the higher end for this destination. Again, we knew what we got into. It was a more upscale place. And probably worth it. But won't do it again. Afterwards, we continue our city walk through shopping streets and beautiful bridges. We have a reservation at the famous New York café for dinner, and decide to go for drinks in the Ruin bar along the way. What a fantastic experience! And totally affordable prices. My glass of champagne was only a few euros, and the scenery is so unique and special.
Definitely something you should experience. On to the New York café for our dinner. The building's exterior invites you to lurk inside. And we use the "we made reservations line", which is noticeably shorter than the "we don't have reservations" line. We are seated near the live band, who play local violin music. Although entertaining and suitable for the setting, the tourists brushing by us to film and take pictures of the band and the interior are enjoying themselves. And the fact that it is apparently allowed makes it not an enjoyable dinner experience for us. The food, however, is oké, yet again, overpriced. But that is something you would expect from this tourist trap. I would prefer more fine dining in line with the interior, but the business model isn't built around that. So yes, I loved seeing the café from the inside, but is it worth a rushed, overpriced dinner? Probably not.
We've spent the whole day on the "pest" side. Tomorrow off to "Buda"
Day 3
Another day with a bus ticket. So we hop on the bus to the Bda side. We're gonna skip the public baths, though I hear the architecture is worth a visit. And we decided to go with the flow today, aside from a tour booked for noon. So we walk up the castle hill, get to the Fisherman's Bastion, and love what we see. Charming squares, tourist, yes, but not so much that you can't pass through. After some sightseeing, we go for an early lunch in a tourist trap restaurant nearby. Right across from Jamie Oliver's empty terrace is a more appealing terrace with great food: Ramazuri's Bistronomy. Had a great lunch there. Paid accordingly.
And then, the dark tourism moment supreme: a visit to the caves under Buda Castle. It should have been home to Vlad the Impaler's cell, the inspiration for Bram Stoker's "Dracula". And as high as the anticipation was, as disappointed we felt afterwards. This was nothing more than a cave tour. The guide really tried her best to make it fun, with some fun facts and humorous remarks, but nah. Not worth our time.
A bit disappointed, we board the hop-on, hop-off bus again to see more of Budapest. We end the day with a very affordable pizza at Salve Pizza Napoletana, near our hotel.
Day 4
Third and last packed day. No more bus tickets are available, so we'll take the subway. We learn that it is easy to manage, easy to pay (tap in, tap out), and very clean. Very impressed. We plan to go to the House of Terror". A museum about the wrong side of the Second World War. Although it has high historical value, as Belgians who grew up in a land torn by both world wars and were exceptionally well educated about the facts during those wars, we're not really impressed. For everybody else, I totally recommend a visit. You can't buy tickets in advance. Don't let yourself get fooled by sites like Get Your Guide; you can actually go up to the counter and buy a ticket if there is availability that day.
We decided to walk around the area and finally find an affordable chimney cake vendor as an alternative for the touristy streets near major attractions, charging a reasonable 20 euros for this sugary treat we saw the days before. Here, however, we pay 5 euros. We feel like locals now. And that's all it's worth for me.
We decided to have lunch at a magical place on my list that I didn't make reservations for: the Magic. It is a restaurant, Harry Potter style, a bit like Incantum in Rome, which I really loved. This place, however, feels a bit like a kingdom from Temu. The music isn't on point, the decorations are very low quality, and the food is pretty disgusting. I have a trio of burgers that taste like the lowest-quality burgers they could find. They cut it into small pieces, put it on an old bun, and add some very ripe cheese. Nope. Not good. I do not recommend this place, not even for the experience. Staff, however, is very friendly and accommodating.
We continue our day with the highlight of my day: the pinball museum. And it's like stepping into a different '90s-neon universe. Full of arcade games, pinball machines, and the typical ding-ding-ding sounds, it transports you back in time. We spent a whole afternoon here and loved every minute of it. The entrance fee is worth the money!
We'll spend our evening with a fantastic tour of the State Opera House. Even if you're not into that genre of music, I recommend doing this tour. We were stunned by the building's beauty and its history. It was a grand end to our city trip.
The aftermath
In retrospect, some stereotypes are confirmed: yes, they eat mainly goulash and drink beer. But how lovely this city was! It is a very "citytripable" city. Lots to see; the main attractions are within walking distance of each other, there's no unsafe feeling, and good facilities to take care of tourists. We went in September, but it was still warm. And we found a water humidifier on some squares to keep you cool. The city wasn't too busy, except at significant points like Fisherman's Bastion, Budapest Castle, and the Parliament. But never too crowded and never for too long. We totally recommend this city as a destination. It was worth it!
Tips
- This subway is cheap, easy to navigate, and very clean. Give it a shot
- Try to avoid the tourist-trap food like New York Café. We weren't impressed by the food, but loved the building
- Take the tour of the Parliament and the State Opera. Excellent guided tours, not too dull, just enough information and time to admire the grandeur