A Child-Free, Pint-Fueled, Rain-Soaked, Absolutely Unforgettable 1-Week Road Trip in Ireland
Never had a chilling wet wind been so pleasing.
I stand in the place where, more than 100 years ago, the first Morse code was sent welcomingly across the ocean. In the place where it landed safely, a little later, after the first triumphant flight from the North American continent.
I am standing in Ireland. In Derrigimlagh, to be exact. In the midst of my road trip, I find myself on the edge of a beautiful country. A country that is a masterpiece of nature, painted in every possible shade of green and gray imaginable. Here, it becomes clear just how beautiful, vibrant, and rugged this land truly is.
But let's start at the beginning. As an experienced traveler, the first step is to find a destination that resonates with you and ignites your interest. After all, where are you going? To experience the world and life, you have to find something that challenges and fascinates you. And Ireland has been doing this to me for a long time. You can feel the harshness conveyed through the images you see in magazines, books and online. The bleak, grim series found on streaming services that suck you into another world. The reference to their complex origins, particularly among pale Americans, is especially notable on St. Patrick's Day.
You sense everywhere that this is not a soft, cuddly country. It will not envelop you like a warm satin blanket. And yet, spoiler alert, it does, thanks to the people who are genuinely helpful and friendly. You'll feel enclosed in their arms and pressed against a cozy bosom. And this is just one of the stereotypes that will be debunked during my trip. The expectations.
The primary motivation to explore this location was the mystical aura that seemed to envelop the land. In series, this country is often portrayed as bleak and divided. It has a violent history and a rough nature. The travel experiences around me, although limited to a trip to Dublin as weekend entertainment, were also all very positive. But without anyone being able to specifically articulate why or convince me with a USP. These barely perceptible touches with the destination had long tingled my curiosity.
Furthermore, Celtic culture is close to my origins. The Vikings conquered Europe, where I grew up, 600 years ago. This rich history, combined with my healthy interest in myths and legends, adds an extra layer of fascination to Ireland. It is a land more magical and mysterious than you might think. In Ireland to this day, there are several tombs and sacrificial circles that bear witness to a respectful past full of rituals and ceremonies appropriate to each stage of life.
The experiences
Flight and preparation
After teasing my curiosity for so long, the time finally came in early June of this year: I decided on a last-minute trip with no specific plans, a tight budget, and a desire to stay relatively close to Belgium. Dublin is a 2-hour flight away, and low-cost airlines like Ryanair make the trip from Belgium more than affordable.
After following the classic steps to book a cheap trip, I was seated in row 19, next to two strangers. Heading to Dublin. At check-in, it also became clear that several bachelor groups were boarding. First hint: There is alcohol in Ireland. The low-cost airline was duly selling overpriced beers to those who couldn't wait for local delicacies like Guinness and whiskey. Fortunately, there were no problems; however, the reports of undisciplined passengers on such flights became more credible. Smooth flying, direct connection from Brussels Zaventem.
Round-trip diary
Day 1
After a short flight, we landed in Dublin. For the first time ever after landing, we were picked up in small vans from the rental center. And this after we were barred from the arrival hall by someone from the car rental, with instructions "car rental pick up can go straight to he pick up". We, along with 20 others, then got out of the line and went to the line outside. Waited in line until there were free seats in one of the vans that came to pick up for the 3-minute ride. No idea why there is no walkway provided to the car rental pickup, or a large shuttle bus. Anyhow, we got there.
After some queuing and confusion with tracking numbers, a very friendly lady assisted us. To my annoyance, she was also very friendly to the people she helped before us. Too friendly. "Please be a little less friendly and work a little quicker", I thought, as I stood impatiently with my serial number paper in my hand, watching how she helped the couple in front of us get their rental car. And then, our turn. And our first encounter with the genuine friendliness of the Irish. They genuinely mean it; they truly want to help you. At the car rental, they helped us by upgrading us to a large hybrid car at no extra cost. First win of this trip.
So the drive to our first hotel, Killeen Castle, feels good. We are euphoric. We feel even happier as we drive up the castle's immense driveway and enter its vast grounds. The grass is trimmed to perfection, resembling a true castle where a princess could appear at any moment. A church surrounded by graves with Celtic crosses. Our stay for the night is at a gorgeous estate, beautiful and authentic, surrounded by vibrant greenery and a golf course. We are in Ireland, and it’s time to check in! The signs are easy to follow, and the lobby is filled with classical music, where a lit fire might even crackle. Although it’s pre-summer and the fireplace isn’t lit, there is something majestic about it.
For check-in, I don’t even have to prove my identity. There are several possibilities: we might be the only guests, we could look very Belgian, the service might be so high-level that they recognize us, or they could have Googled us beforehand and visually acknowledged us. I’m guessing the latter but hoping for the penultimate option. Either way, we feel very welcome.
We are assigned a room in an authentic cottage. The path is paved with beige gravel, and the garden is filled with beautifully flowering native plants, including classic roses. The room is spacious, cozy, and warm, with a trash can engraved with the hotel's initials—a sign of immense wealth. We already feel like royalty.
After settling in, we make a quick stop nearby, immersing ourselves in the mystical. Tombs like Newgrange are prevalent in this area and well-preserved. Newgrange is recognized by UNESCO, but I read that it is overpriced and overrated, so I opted for a more authentic experience: the Four Knocks tomb. This smaller-scale tomb is from the same period, but to enter, we need to get a key from a local resident. Instructions can be found online as well as on the fence leading to the tomb. We decide to limit ourselves to the view from up the hill.
Next, we visit an ancient, mythical place just beyond the bend: the Hill of Tara. For centuries, it has been described as a special location, and standing here, you can feel its significance. The air feels heavy, and the earth tingles. This place is special.
In short, this mystical hill was once the seat of the High Kings of Ireland and is central to Celtic rituals and mythology. It is home to the legendary Lia Fáil, the Stone of Destiny, which is said to reveal the true king. The hill is also associated with the divine Tuatha Dé Danann, a mythical people, and with St. Patrick, who introduced Christianity to this area. Today, it remains a symbol of Irish identity, where the past feels almost tangible. For more details, read my blog dedicated to the mystical topic in Ireland, or visit this mystical place yourself.
Feeling spiritually enriched, we return to the hotel. We chose to have dinner at The Kiln, located on the property. The atmosphere is informal, and upon arrival, it is filled with golfers wrapping up their Sunday rounds, along with families. We ordered a nice steak with mushroom sauce and a burger. Although my Irish coffee was forgotten momentarily, it was brought to me afterward, making the overall experience still worth a 7.5/10. The waiter was in training. This is also the restaurant where we're having breakfast tomorrow morning, which promises to be delicious and fresh.
Day 2
Today, we journey across the lush countryside to the west coast, with Oranmore as our final destination. Our first stop is Sean's Pub, reputed to be the oldest pub in the world. For us Belgians, it feels much the same as any other old pub you might find in a Flemish village. However, we fall for the marketing and decide to buy a t-shirt, so that others can see that we've visited this tourist trap. The Guinness doesn't taste any better, and you have to gulp it down while squeezed into a cramped chair. One male tourist after another strolls in to see if this really is the oldest pub in the world. Spoiler alert: an entirely new room has been built in the back to accommodate the stream of curious visitors. For an authentic experience, you have to jostle for a seat in front of the building. It was a nice stop in a colorful town, although there isn't much to see or say about it.
Later that evening, we arrived in Oranmore, where we decided to blend in with the locals by visiting Keane's Pub for beer and classic pub fare. The food was tasty, but the portions were generous—way too much for us. We ordered a well-filled chowder and a lamb shank, and we definitely got our fill.
Tonight, we are staying at the Coach House Hotel. Checking in was not a smooth process, and the reception was neither friendly nor welcoming. Our room is spacious, but its size feels a bit unsociable. Overall, the hotel isn’t impressive, but it’s suitable for a two-night stay, which is just enough. Oh, and parking is available—double points for that!
Day 3
Every day begins with a good breakfast, and the Italian restaurant Basilico at the not-so-great hotel does a fantastic job. The breakfast is made fresh to order, catering to our tastes and desires—delicious! This is a nice contrast to the poor reception and unsociable room we have.
The reason we stayed overnight in Oranmore was to experience the Wild Atlantic Way, a mythical route said to help people find themselves. However, the first downside we faced was the weather. Ireland is unpredictable, even in June, with mostly wind and rain, though we do see the sun occasionally. On the plus side, we truly feel the spirit of the Wild Atlantic Way through these elements. Additionally, our upgraded rental car features seat heating, which we utilize gratefully throughout the day.
Our day included stops along the rugged coastline while following the "Wild Atlantic Way" signs, a brief visit to the visitor center of Connemara National Park, and a windy walk to the site where Marconi transmitted the first radio signal across the Atlantic (the Alcock and Brown memorial). We encountered some woolly sheep and even stumbled upon a tropical beach in Ireland. We also made a restroom stop that offered the most beautiful view, and we saw Kylemore Abbey, which is idyllically situated in a fjord. Although we didn't feel like visiting due to the rain and the long drive ahead, we knew it would be worth it.
Overall, the scenery reminded us of Norway, with its lush greenery, tranquil water, and rugged rocky landscapes surrounding us. Tired, windswept, and satisfied, we eventually made our way back to the lesser hotel, which had become a welcoming refuge from the wind.
Since breakfast at the Italian restaurant Basilico downstairs was so good, we decided to try their dinner as well. While nothing too special, the prices were on the expensive side. We enjoyed a nice aperitif, bruschetta, and salmon before settling in for a good night's sleep.
Day 4
Today, we break free from our least nice hotel of the trip. On the program: some field roads, mysticism, and natural beauty.
But first stop after breakfast: Burren Smokehouse. Aiming to stock up on fresh salmon for lunch. Locally caught and then smoked here. Couldn't be fresher. And perfectly, the Burren Smokhouse just provided packed lunches on request like mine: bread, butter, salmon, cheese, and a glass of wine. Ideal. Packed lunch.
Onward along local field roads. And this is one of those moments where you curse at the big rental car. Apart from the fact that people drive on the left side of the road here (the opposite side of the road from ours in Belgium), many tour buses also use these roads. Probably to let their horde of trampled tourists feel the authentic countryside, however, to the annoyance of other traffic. These roads are made for sheep and 1 way jeeps. No buses to cross. And even though Ireland feels wide, at such times, you feel the stress level rise. If only for the scratch level that rises on the side of the car from scraping through bushes.
We do get rewarded after a hectic drive with another beautiful, mystical site: Poulnabrone Dolmen. Ireland's oldest megalithic monument is an epic portal tomb, composed of massive stones. Literally meaning "the hole of the sorrows," Poulnabrone is set against the barren but beautiful landscape of the Burren National Park. Definitely worth a stop. Although with us, it was fighting for a good photo monument. After all, that cruising bus was full of Italian tourists, and they had us beat towards this stop.
Second stop: The Cliffs of Moher. Cinematic, epic, a must stop in any travel book. And so we did. First minus: entrance fee. And still pretty cattle look. 15 EUR per person. In return, you get to: cross the street and look at the sea along the cliffs, park, use a restroom in a yard truck, visit a very basic exhibit about the cliffs, and walk into some shops that sell you all the goodies with écliffs of Moher" on them. If you opt for a full tour with a guide and transfer, you'll pay more. Honestly, the view is kind of impressive. But, I think we said that to each other about 10 times along the way here as well. The paying point of the cliffs only has the amenities and paying entrance as an extra. Since it had cost us money, and the view was worth it anyway, it was time to consume the lunch we bought earlier. Tasty. Nice. A purely Irish day that I enjoyed anyway.
To conclude our day, we stopped at a magic circle: the Grange stone circle. Without knowing precisely what happened here, you feel a range of emotions again. This place was heavy, even 4000 years ago. A lot happened here; many things were felt. One of the stones was marked with sacrifices. No idea why. However, it is said to be one of the most impressive stone circles in Europe, with over 100 stones still standing.
This time, we ended the day in grandeur (hotel-wise). Our accommodation for the night, the River Island Hotel in Castleisland, feels like it was once quite something. As if every major celebrity would walk through the doors here like this. And how do we know this? The exterior of the lobby features beautiful woodwork, deep red mats, and gold trim. The very professional and attentive staff guided us perfectly at check-in. The delicious cocktail was ideally suited to the Art Deco interior of the cocktail bar.
We then immediately took our evening meal in the hotel's dining room. Tasty, all right. The menu, the interior of the smaller room, and the service were dated. But more than okay for this price. We feel the same way about the room. It feels like we would have been over the moon in the 70s with this interior. We especially missed our modern, higher ceilings and modern motifs. But everything was clean and present. So was breakfast the next day. Our tea was even poured for us—a bonus for the service. The minus point was the quality of the food at breakfast: not that good, but okay for the price we paid.
Day 5
Back on route. Stomach nicely filled. And ready for, in retrospect, one of the highlights of our trip: Blarney Castle. The line of tourists queuing up does it to kiss a stone. Upside down, at the top of the castle. We paced. However, I thoroughly enjoyed everything else the estate has to offer. So when you ask if the visit is worth the 23 EUR per person, we answer a resounding yes. A full fern garden, outbuildings, perfectly maintained world gardens, a poison garden, and to top it off, a completely mystical area where witches and ghosts party at night (as they say). We spent half a day here smoothly, mainly because we still had to move on. A whole day would also be possible. Lovely chill. Enjoying the lush greenery, the poisonous garden, and its rich history.
We didn't want to leave, but we needed to get to our next stop: Cobh. A lovely harbor town. With a fan club of U2, surrounded by the rumor that Bono himself visits this cafe regularly. But we are here for another reason. This place was the last port of call for the Titanic. What you see here is the previous mainland that the Titanic's sailors also saw. And that hits hard.
At the same time, there is a reminder that this place has a large share of Americans with Irish roots. Emigration to the New World was significant in this context, particularly given Ireland's own challenges at the time. And you feel that, you see that. And all this is properly honored here. There are statues and museums dedicated to every aspect of this tough history.
Unfortunately, due to our limited time, we were unable to do much of it.
The drive continues until our overnight stay in Kilkenny. Again, a very Irish town with a castle, river, and a hotel that could be straight out of a Victorian fairy tale: Clubhouse Hotel. Check-in was easy, taking place in a Victorian-style lobby on the first floor. Spoiler alert: no stairs! As it should have been. After a walk through one-story corridors and a hundred-year-old artifacts displayed, you enter a new building. We had a convenient, beautiful, and modern room. So satisfied guests. Especially the bed slept very well.
We eat across the street, after a short walk through the town. It feels like a hip student town. For convenience, we opted for Statham's by Pembroke. We kept it simple: gin & Tonic, Guinness, a main course I don't even remember, but I did go for the stikcy pudding. Yum. However, it was pricey for the quality of the food we received. It fille dour belly's, followed by a restorative night's sleep.
Day 6
Last day on the road. Heavy rain is predicted throughout the day. Solution: finding indoor activities. This once-in-a-lifetime experience gets to kick off: visiting the Waterford Crystal factor. After the tour, I bought overpriced wine glasses that we now dare not use, fearing they might break. Feels fancy, was a nice break from the day. Closer to Dublin, we go again for something more historical: Wicklow Gaol. This was an intense visit. You learn a great deal about Irish history here; this is not just another prison. Heavy stuff, but necessary. And instructive. I come to the conclusion that World War I largely passed the Irish people by, as they had enough on their own to contend with. Meanwhile, this is also a place known for very heavy paranormal activity. Ideal darl tourism destination. Sadly, after our visit, we received news that the gaol is currently closed until further notice.
At the last minute, we decided to have lunch there as well. That was about one of the least tasty things I've ever eaten. The Reuben sandwich was made with not-so-fresh meat, hard to chew, and the hot/cold ratios of the various ingredients were confusing. Not recommended. On to Dublin, literally in the pouring rain and rush hour. However, we were able to check into our hotel, the Croke Park Hotel, without any problems. This is located right across the Bloody Sunday Bridge, a historical landmark commemorating a dark day in Ireland's history.
Day 7
Last day in Dublin, and we begin with a short walk to the city center. All in all, this covers 30 minutes with difficulty. Dublin really isn't big.
We start with a tour of Trinity College, and get to visit the fantastic building, see the Trinity Library, and have a chance to see the Book of Kells with our own eyes. The guide, a local student, tells wonderful, juicy stories during this tour. Perfect start to our day.
Furthermore, we visit the statue of Molly Malone and have a drink while waiting for our master class in Irish coffee at the Whiskey Museum. Nothing special, but it filled our afternoon. And now I can tell everyone I'm a pro.
After that, we visited the ultimate tourist trap: the Guinness House. Along the way, I am beckoned by a local tattoo shop that does flash tattoos for my favorite holiday: Friday the 13th. I opt for Zero from Nightmare Before Christmas, for a minus price.
To the Guinness Storehouse Experience. And bam: the first queue. A crowd of people. I feel a bit of regret arise. And even more when we are just pushed into the interactive museum with that same horde of people and go through the building like a herd of cows. The free Guinness you can drink on the top floor with a view of the skyline tastes less because of this, or maybe it's because of the enormous line where you have to queue for your free drink. Nice extra, no added value for us.
I'm not a fan of this visit, and really think it's not worth it. Pro tip: just take pictures at the gate. The tour itself is not worth it.
We ended the last day with dinner at Hawksmoor. This is a well-known chain, boasting blissful interiors and a high standard of food and service. We are just in time to choose the promo menu. This turns out not to be a bad choice; a delicious steak is eaten for a blissful price. We end this day with a walk back to our hotel at Croke's Park. Lovely stroll through the city. Dublin is warm and beautiful.
Why You Need This Irish Road Trip in Your Life
The discoveries in Ireland are beautiful. Very beautiful. And Ireland is green. But not just any green. There are huge shades of green. And you see them all. The people are very kind, genuinely affectionate. This is something I have rarely felt anywhere else in the world. Totally worth the visit!